Two things determine the amount of power you need to drive a center-channel speaker: the power-handling capability of the speaker both continuous and maximum ratings apply and the "electrical value" of the passive crossover employed, which is determined by the type of capacitors and inductors used in the network. In general, systems that employ an active crossover require less power than those using passive networks, since active devices filter out large-amplitude bass frequencies before they even get to the amplifier.
Passive devices filter out frequencies after amplification, which means that you may need an amplifier with a higher output and more headroom to prevent clipping during bass-heavy musical passages. In most installations, 20 watts or so should be more than enough to power a center channel. Remember, you dont want the center channel to call attention to itself; rather, it should complement and fill in the front sound stage produced by the front-left and -right speakers.
Once youve mapped out your center-channel strategy, its time to either hire an installer or dust off your installation gear. If youre going to do the work yourself, take a few moments to organize your work space and make sure you have all the necessary tools — a screwdriver, wire snips, and a crimping tool or soldering gun. If everything checks out, its time to roll up the ol sleeves and get down to work.
Replacing a factory dash speaker should be relatively uncomplicated — as long as you use a speaker thats the same size as the factory driver. First, snap off or unscrew the grille cover and remove the stock speaker — if there is one, that is, and not just a hole.
Next, snake an appropriate length of speaker wire through the dash and out to where the crossover network and amplifier if youre using them are located. Use rubber grommets wherever the wire passes through sheet metal; to secure the wire under the dash, use tie-wraps. Then connect the wire to the positive and negative speaker terminals. It cant hurt to wrap a piece of electrical tape around the terminals to help prevent an electrical short. If you choose a speaker thats smaller or larger than the factory cutout or decide to create your own cutout, youre in for a time-consuming fabrication job thats beyond the scope of this article — one that requires a custom mounting plate and an aftermarket grille assembly.
The unfortunate reality of dashboards is that many dont have a centrally located factory speaker, which brings the rearview-mirror option into play. Step one is to construct a small, lightweight speaker enclosure that can be mounted above, below, or behind the rearview mirror.
Id make it out of ABS plastic, since this material is relatively easy to work with and you can paint it to match the mirror. The basic procedure: Cut out the pieces for a little box; cut a hole whose diameter matches that of the tweeters rim in the panel that will serve as the boxs faceplate. Mount the speaker, with the wires attached, to the box using glue or screws. Specifically, you need to secure the speakers rim to the outside of the faceplate; this will allow you to pop it out any time.
Then, drill an exit hole for the wire in one of the side-panels; pull the wire through the hole so that its taut inside the box and dangling loosely outside it. Next, glue the box together, and secure it to the mirror with Velcro, silicone glue, or a homemade clip. Then, carefully push the wire under the trim bordering the headliner; the trim is fixed, but the upholstery gives.
Run the wire over to the nearest windshield pillar. Unscrew the pillars trim molding and snake the speaker cable down the pillar. Then, run the wire to the amplifier as you would in any install. Take your time, so you dont pinch the speaker wire or tear the headliner. If the headliner in your vehicle is made of hard plastic, you might have to remove the trim, which is usually held on by plastic clips. Be very careful when removing the trim or the clips will break off. Regardless of the exact installation method you use, the important thing is to make sure that the enclosure is firmly secured to the mirror and does nothing to obstruct the drivers field of view.
That crossover point seems pretty high to me. I havent heard the Tweeter Mirror yet, so youre on your own here. If you decide on this approach as a last resort, I suggest that you consult an experienced installer — doing this type of job correctly is an art, and its a pain in the butt, too.
But if youre a brave soul, tackle the beast by first removing any panels or assemblies that provide access to the air-conditioning duct youve selected. Once the duct is exposed, youll need to fabricate a bracket to secure the speaker inside the duct; the driver should face the interior, of course. There is no set way of doing this, however, so youll have to use your imagination here. One option is to fabricate a wood "donut" that will fit snugly in the duct; its hole must be large enough to accept your speakers rear assembly and its diameter must match that of the speakers rim.
Drill a small speaker-wire hole in the duct several inches behind the mounting location of the driver; this should be 2 or 3 inches away from the dash. Then mount the driver on the donut, attach the speaker leads, and secure the donut in the duct with silicone glue. This type of glue is flexible and wont dry out. Finally, reattach the duct cover. Once the speaker is installed, its time to fine-tune its output. The key point here is not to overdo it. Remember, the job of a center-channel speaker is to fill in that black hole — not to stand on its own as a separate, identifiable music source.
Adjusting the volume is a straightforward process when youve chosen the summed-mono or signal-processor route. First, turn the center-channel amplifiers input-sensitivity control all the way down.
Then, while playing your system, slowly turn the center channel up until it just fills the void between the left and right speakers; some signal processors, including the Gavotte, have a separate level control for the center channel.
If you traveled the bridged-stereo path and installed an L-pad in-line with the speaker, simply turn up the L-pads potentiometer until the center channels output blends in appropriately.
Adjustment is more involved without an L-pad: First, you have to gauge how much louder the center channel is twice as loud, four times as loud, and so on. Then consult the resistor chart Figure 5 to determine the proper resistor value.
Insert the resistor in series with the positive speaker lead. Sound Audio Guru. There are many speakers available on the market, and they come with different technologies, size and features. To help you choose the best ones for your vehicle, we created this guide with all the information you need to know about car speaker installation: what it is and how to do it. A car audio system is a good addition to any vehicle.
It can add a lot of value to it and make it more enjoyable for you while you are driving. There are many benefits associated with installing speakers in your car.
They not only look good but they can also make your drive more pleasurable and entertaining. And if you have a small kids, the sound will keep them happy and occupied for hours!
There is a science to installing car speakers, and it can be difficult to find the right fit. But with the right tools, knowledge, and expertise from a car audio installation specialist, you can have car speakers that sound better than they ever have before.
There are a few very simple pieces of equipment that are required in order to install car speakers on your own. You will need a speaker, a wiring harness, and a drill with the appropriate drill bit to make the process as quick and easy as possible. But maybe some cars out there will need some additional tools, such as:. When shopping for the best speakers for your car, there are a few important points to consider, the first being whether to go with component or full-range coaxial speakers.
Here are the most important details to consider. Full-range speakers are cheaper to buy but harder to install, since you have to find aftermarket replacements that fit your car. Component speakers are more expensive but provide better sound quality. They provide the best sound quality of any kind of speaker, but they can be expensive. Subwoofers are responsible for the ultra-low, "booming" bass sound that some car owners idolize. If your car came with factory subwoofers, installing new woofers can be as easy as seating them in the existing housing and connecting them to the car's wiring harness.
If your car didn't come with factory subwoofers, however, or you'd like to install additional ones, your task may be much harder. You may need expand your stock woofer's existing mounting holes or make significant modifications to the car to house large woofers.
For instance, many people who want to add multiple woofers to their car custom-install a panel in the trunk to house the woofers. Subwoofers often have fairly large power demands and complicated wiring schemes. You may want to buy and install a separate amplifier wiring kit to simplify the process of wiring your subwoofers. If not, you may need to connect the woofer directly to the battery and the car's stereo and ground the woofer manually.
Install and test any tweeters. As with woofers, tweeters, which produce high-pitch frequencies, can be easy or difficult to install based on the factory components of your car. If your car came with tweeters, you may only need to install the new ones in the existing housing and connect them to the existing wiring harness.
If, however, there are no spaces to install the tweeters, you may need to make your own or expand existing ones, use a mounting bracket, etc. Luckily, tweeters are much smaller than woofers, so the adjustments you'll need to make will be minor in comparison. As with woofers, if your car didn't already have any tweeters, you may need connect the tweeter directly to the battery and stereo and ground the tweeter to the car's body.
Replace all panels and speaker grilles. When all the components of your new speaker system have been installed, tested, and securely mounted in the car, you may replace any speaker grills or panels that you had to remove to install the speakers. Make sure you've kept any screws that you had to remove to take the grill or panel off so that you're able to re-secure them properly.
Congratulations - your new speaker system is ready to use! Maybe the ground is not properly setup, thus making noise in the form of static sounds. Not Helpful 2 Helpful Red to red, black to brown, and there should be another red that you have to cut off because it's used for testing when the speaker is manufactured.
Not Helpful 6 Helpful 3. Run an amplifier to your stereo. Take the speaker wires from your amp to your woofer. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. If you find yourself in the situation above, you can do a couple of things. Replacing your radio with an aftermarket one would give those aftermarket speakers more power.
Also, if you want to keep your factory radio's appearance, or perhaps, a feature like steering-wheel mounted controls, you can amplify your factory stereo. Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. If you still have your factory OEM radio installed, installing aftermarket speakers may not improve sound quality for you.
You may find that your radio lacks the deep bass like it used to have with the original speakers. This is because factory original speakers are generally constructed with paper cones, which require less power to deliver bass. Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Tighten everything securely, as serious vibrations are produced by speakers, especially at high sound levels. Helpful 9 Not Helpful 8.
Make sure the new speakers are compatible with your car's stereo system. Most are rated at a specific wattage and impedance, for instance, 25w and 8 ohms. Helpful 7 Not Helpful You Might Also Like How to. How to. Co-authors: Updated: September 16, Categories: Audio Speakers. Deutsch: Autolautsprecher einbauen.
0コメント